::TRAVEL NEWS::
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Halifax : Summer Sizzles By Land And By Sea Source: www.thestar.com - Kelly Toughill, Special To The Star (May 16, 2009) HALIFAX–This is a city of perfect summer moments: sitting on a wooden deck 
watching a parade of tall ships sail past; following a bagpiper
through an old stone fort; gaping in awe at a man riding a
unicycle while juggling flaming torches in the dark; listening
to the 400-year-old dialogue of the Bard come alive under the
stars as the ocean murmurs nearby.Many cities wilt in the summer. They get too hot, too crowded, too dirty. Not Halifax. This city shines in July, August and September, when it is pleasantly warm by day, and deliciously cool by night. It's built for summer, with beaches and lakes for swimming, surfing and kayaking and a thriving nightlife of theatres, concerts and bars. This summer some of the world's most impressive tall ships will return to Halifax, arriving on July 16. Visitors can tour the U.S. Coast Guard bark the Eagle, and more than a dozen others. The Buskers' Festival returns Aug. 6, with dozens of street performers scattered along the waterfront. Buskers are best enjoyed at night, when their crazy pass-the-hat antics seem even more daring illuminated by torches and spotlights. Here's a brief guide to the best of a Halifax summer. Sleeping The Lord Nelson Hotel overlooks the Victorian-era Public Gardens in the heart of downtown. This classic hotel was an occasional haunt of international spies through two world wars and still retains an aura of old-fashioned, wood-panelled mystery. It is just down the hill from the city's premier historic site – Citadel Hill – and around the corner from the city's best shopping on Spring Garden Rd. For those with more modern sensibilities, the brand new Courtyard Marriott Hotel has a view of Halifax Harbour and George's Island, and is also home to the lovely Spirit Spa. The hotel won raves from tradition-minded Haligonians for the way it blends into the historic Brewery Market next door. Shopping This is a city of eclectic shopping. Start on the waterfront in the big stone edifice known as Historic Properties, one of several vault-like buildings constructed more than two centuries ago to safeguard the loot of successful privateers. Today, Historic Properties holds a map store, a shop featuring local pewter works, a clothing store that features designers from across Canada, an art gallery and Carrefour Atlantique Emporium, a unique store that carries toys, crafts and hundreds of books about Atlantic Canada. From Historic Properties, head west along the waterfront to Nova Scotia Crystal, where you can watch master craftsmen create the goblets, flutes and candlesticks sold in its shop. Then head uphill. Stop at the gift shop at the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia to find unique souvenirs of the region. On Barrington St. you will find Hilltribe, a local boutique that commissions its own line of natural-fabric fashion from tailors in Indonesia. On the same block is Peep Show, with cutting-edge fashion geared toward 20-somethings, and a candy store that is a favourite of visiting celebrities. Meander along Barrington until you reach Spring Garden Rd. This is the heart of Halifax shopping. Goods range from the stiletto wonders of Kickass Shoes to the antique saris of Plovers, an eco-boutique in the Park Lane Mall. Also check out the city's fine art galleries, such as Zwicker's Galley on Doyle St., Studio 21 on Lower Water St. and the Argyle Gallery at Historic Properties. Dining If you go to Martinique Beach, stop by Harbour Fish N' Fries in Musquodoboit on Highway 7 on the way back for the clam platter. This isn't the leathery stuff found in most diners. These bivalves are plump and juicy, plucked fresh from the bay behind the beach and then coated in light batter. Skip the fries and get extra portions of clam, scallop or fish. For more sophisticated dining, return to the city and try Gio at the Prince George Hotel, Chives on Barrington St. or Bish, the city's best upscale restaurant on the water, at Bishop's Landing. Another favourite of local residents is Saege, one of several food establishments owned by a beloved local catering company, Scanway. For a truly unique experience, head to McNab's Island in Halifax Harbour with a picnic from gourmet grocer Pete's Frootique on Dresden Row and a bottle from the city's premier vintner, Port of Wines, on Queen St. Drinking Argyle St. is the centre of nighttime entertainment, with several bars and restaurants strung along two blocks surrounding Neptune Theatre. On a warm summer night enjoy the city view from the top deck of The Argyle, or go to the other extreme by checking out the Seahorse, a basement bar one block away where some of Canada's best bands got their start. Down the hill toward the harbour you'll in the Old Triangle, a classic Irish Pub, and P+ogue Fado, one of several clubs that feature live music. Bearly's House of Blues and Ribs on Barrington St. is everything a blues club should be: a small scruffy space that smells like stale beer and attracts some of the best blues musicians in the country. Point Pleasant Park is home to Shakespeare by the Sea, which will stage Macbeth and Love's Labour's Lost in the forest this year. Outdoor delights Nova Scotia lives up to its claim of being "Canada's Ocean Playground," with surfing, kayaking, beachcombing and hiking trails all available inside the city limits. The most popular surfing site is Lawrencetown Beach, about half an hour east of downtown. Three businesses rent surf gear and offer lessons at Lawrencetown: Kannon Beach operates out of a big building on a bluff overlooking the beach; Dacane's operates a kiosk at the beach itself and Happy Dudes rents gear from a trailer down the road. Sea Sun Kayak is the oldest kayak service in the city. They run expert tours through protected bays, where you can scoop up fresh mussels from your kayak to boil up on the beach. The best beach hike is at Crystal Crescent Beach southwest of the city, but don't venture past the second beach if you are offended by nudity. The pristine white sands and dramatic grey cliffs at the end of Crystal Crescent have long been the unofficial nude beach of Halifax. Another stunning beach is found farther east of Lawrencetown. Martinique Beach is the longest beach in the Maritimes, a five-kilometre crescent of sand backed by grassy dunes. Kelly Toughill is a Halifax-based freelance writer. |
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