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::TRAVEL NEWS::
LE Newsletter - March 18, 2010
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Sassy, Sexy Sydney
Source:
www.thestar.com - Susan Gough Henly
(March 13, 2010)
SYDNEY–The
easygoing 2000 Olympics showed off the breezy, sexy harbour city
at its
best.
The harbour, bridge and opera house still seduce, but don't
limit yourself to the Rocks and Darling Harbour tourist ghettos.
Get out and enjoy the city like a local, whether that be sailing
or surfing, hanging out in hip, inner-city neighbourhoods, and
dining and drinking al fresco just about anywhere.
SHOPPING
The Saturday Paddington Bazaar Market, sprawling around an old
sandstone church, offers great people-watching and high-quality
crafts including designer hats made from water hyacinths,
inspired jewellery, and quirky fashions.
Oxford St. is lined with upmarket shops, but the side streets
are more intriguing with bijou boutiques in Victorian-era
terrace houses decorated with wrought-iron lacework.
"William St. is a gem," says local Rebecca Jones. "Check out
Andrew McDonald for handmade shoes, Just William Chocolates and
fabulous Aussie designers like Collette Dinnegan and Leona
Edmiston.
"Paddington is where designers go when they've hit the big time.
If you are a trailblazer, head to the more authentic and edgy
Surry Hills. Right next to the CBD (central business district),
it has an amazing mix of galleries, furniture stores, cafes,
bars and restaurants catering for the upwardly mobile.
At the same time, there are still a lot of boarding houses, and
students and artists living here," says resident Philip
Engelberts.
Nike and Chris Balken's new Collector Store on Crown St. is a
microcosm of what's on offer.
"We've put together a mix of local Sydney designers, plus
handmade products from around the country. We are working with
stylists, pattern makers and artists who are developing
experimental collections," says Nike.
You can pick up cushions hand-printed with laced silver foil on
sand linen ($90), plus a roll of wallpaper and even a dress to
match. There are laser-cut silver tree pendants for $49, leather
bags made just around the corner ($220), silk and linen jackets
($385), angular salad bowls, and mirrors with recycled
magazine-cover frames.
A small one will set you back $195. Nearby, check out Object, a
gallery and boutique offering some of Sydney's best ceramics,
glassware, and jewellery. Down the road is Formaggi Ocello, a
rustic barnlike space that sells the finest Italian, French and
Australian farmhouse cheeses. Stay for some Gorgonzola Dolce
with truffle honey and a glass of Chianti Classico.
Not too far away is Longrain, a must-visit for its heady bar
scene and updated Thai classics served at long communal tables.
If this is too chi-chi, head to Abdul's Lebanese restaurant,
which has been serving university students smoky baba ghanouj,
falafel and tabbouleh for 47 years.
Better yet, order some tapas and hang out with an artsy crowd on
the upstairs balcony of the corner Clock Hotel, which overlooks
the first Saturday of the month vintage clothes market.
DINING
Sydney bucks the cliché that you can't have your restaurant view
and great food, too. Quay, Aria, Guillaume at Bennelong, and
Icebergs all deliver some of the best food in the city.
An earthier gem is Sean's Panorama which has more of a peak than
a panorama; yet this tiny casual bistro right across from the
beach at Bondi serves up honest fare. Dishes are written on
blackboards above the open kitchen – perfect after a day in the
surf.
There may be heirloom tomato salad with goat curd and the best
roast chook (that's Aussie for chicken) in the country, not to
mention desserts like passion fruit granita, mango salad and ice
cream.
For great dumplings you can't go past the modern Din Tai Fung on
the edge of Chinatown. Not far from the zoo, right on Balmoral
Beach is the Moorish-inspired Bather's Pavilion, built in 1928.
Today, it is a colourful café and restaurant, with a beach house
atmosphere. Locals drop by the café from morning till dusk to
gaze across Sydney Harbour and enjoy Caesar salad or anchovy and
potato pizza. Join a well-heeled crowd for inspired Mod Oz fare
in the restaurant like chilled asparagus soup with yabbies
(freshwater crayfish), and roast spring lamb with aubergine and
goat cheese.
DRINKING
Kings Cross may be Sydney's nightlife hub but today's bar of the
moment is the four-story Ivy Bar right in the heart of the CBD.
You have to dress for success but once inside there is an entire
design precinct, from British pub to garden party, to explore.
Only the most savvy make it to the rooftop Pool Club. If you are
one of them, ask your tennis pro-dressed waiter for a Pink
Flamingo made with Plymouth gin, St. Germain elderflower
liqueur, pink grapefruit juice, egg white and basil leaf ...
refreshing on a steamy Sydney summer night.
If multi-tiered venues are your thing, check out the classy and
slightly camp Will and Toby's in Darlinghurst.
The first floor Supper Club doubles as jazz, soul and cabaret
venue, whilst the top level Polo Lounge oozes sophistication
with its leather sofas, fireplace and balcony.
For a great buzz in the bosom of Sydney Harbour, the west-facing
Opera Bar, tucked below the main promenade, is a great spot for
sunset drinks overlooking the Bridge.
SLEEPING
The Park Hyatt has long been Sydney's mainstay for dress circle
views of the Opera House.
If you want to stay in a piece of history, book a heritage room
(with what must be the highest hotel-room ceilings in the world)
at the Westin Hotel, once the offices of the General Post
Office.
In the basement is a beehive of dining options including a steak
house, oyster bar, deli and sushi train. A charming budget
option is the designer-hip Dive Hotel (where you can practically
dive into the ocean) overlooking Coogee Beach. Former television
producer Terry Bunton has created an updated Down Under-style
Italian pensione. He offers loads of insiders' advice over the
help-yourself continental breakfast in the sunny breakfast room
or on the bamboo-fringed terrace.
DOING
Tick off Bridge Climb and touring the Opera House, then get out
on the water.
Head down to Circular Quay and hop on any green and yellow
ferry. Better yet, take a sailing class with Sydney by Sail for
great views while you learn how to hoist the jib sail. Try a
surfing lesson at Manly or Bondi or swim in one of Sydney's many
ocean pools.
If looking at the water rather than swimming in it is more your
thing, try one of the fabulous walking trails that meander
through the 400 hectares of natural harbour waterfront or along
the rugged ocean coastline. For ocean views, take the coastal
path from the southern end of Bondi Beach, past the beautiful
set hanging out at Bondi Icebergs, and wander along the
weathered sandstone cliffs past gorgeous Tamarama, a few
kilometres to Bronte Beach, where you can enjoy lunch at an al
fresco café.
Susan Gough Henly is a Melbourne, Australia-based freelance
writer. |
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